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 Post subject: HOW TO: Replace Clutch Master Cylinder
PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 7:12 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2008 3:37 am
Posts: 356
Location: Moore, TX
Changed the clutch master cylinder today...

1995 F150. 300 I-6, ZF-5 (originally M5OD-r2), bw1356

First you locate the clutch safety switch under the dash. Its do the passenger side of the gas pedal on the firewall.
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Disconnect the plug from the switch. There is a plastic tab on the front and on the back.
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Pop the master cylinder rod off the clutch linkage.
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Using a 13mm, undo the bottom nut for the master cylinder.
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Then the top...
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Pull the clutch master cylinder from the firewall, being careful not to mess up the neutral safety switch.
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Master cylinder is out...
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Because I cut the lower part of the hydraulic clutch line when I did the transmission swap, I could pull the entire thing out as 1 unit.
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This little clip holds the safety switch in place. Pries off easily.
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This little plastic clip is important. It holds the neutral safety switch on the clutch master cylinder pushrod. Be VERY careful taking it apart. Its very thin.
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With the thin plastic clip removed, the safety switch should slide right off the pushrod.
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Set the safety switch aside. You have to reuse it.
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Old master cylinder. JUNK!
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Slide the safety switch onto the new pushrod. Be sure to put it on the right direction.
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Reinstall the plastic clip. The other clip that was on the original master cylinder isn't on the new one, so don't worry about it.
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Pull the plug out of the bottom of the master cylinder.
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Inspect the opening to make sure there is no debris.
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Take the cap off the end of the hydraulic clutch line.
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The new line comes with a small rubber gasket. EASY to lose. Don't drop it, and don't get it dirty.
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Install the gasket on the hydraulic clutch line.
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with the line in place, tap the roll pin through the master cylinder. One side is tapered to assist the roll pin in going in.
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I tapped it flat with a hammer, and use a small punch to get it centered in the master cylinder.
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Slide the master cylinder through the firewall, and reposition on the studs.
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Tighten the nuts up. Again, this takes a 13mm wrench.
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The master cylinder comes with a new plastic clip that holds the pushrod on the clutch linkage.
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Slide it into place.
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the flat side of the plastic clip goes onto the linkage first.
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When you have it all the way on, it should "snap" into place.
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Reconnect the neutral safety switch.
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From here, you'd connect the line to the slave cylinder, then fill bleed the clutch system. I haven't done this yet, so no pics for you!


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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: Replace Clutch Master Cylinder
PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 1:28 pm 
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Low, Slow, and Broke
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Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 8:40 pm
Posts: 4472
Location: Binghamton, NY
i would recommend bench bleeding the master cylinder first. it will save you alot of pedal pumping and bleeding from underneath

_________________
2000 Ranger XLT 4wd 4.0L, JBA Cat-back, K&N drop-in M5OD, 8.8" Traclok 4.10's - The Daily
1998 Volkswagen Jetta GL Stock 2.0, Stock Auto, FWD FTL - The Slow (Maggies)
1992 F-150 2wd Modded 4.9, Rebuilt M5OD, 8.8" Open 3.08 - The Low (Driveway Queen)
2001 Yamaha Raptor 660R, Pro Circuit T4 Exhaust - The Fawkin Fast Toy! (With flat tires...)


Maggie: "I like diesels... They whistle while they work!"


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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: Replace Clutch Master Cylinder
PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 3:21 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2008 3:37 am
Posts: 356
Location: Moore, TX
1992f1502wd wrote:
i would recommend bench bleeding the master cylinder first. it will save you alot of pedal pumping and bleeding from underneath


Everything I read about the master cylinder said that it was a REALLY bad idea to bench bleed it. You can easily mess it up doing that. To save with the pumping, I'm going to do a gravity bleed. Easy to do, and will save me a lot of pedal pumping.


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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: Replace Clutch Master Cylinder
PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 3:49 pm 
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Crane 2030 FTW!
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Joined: Wed May 18, 2005 7:25 am
Posts: 1687
Location: Copley, OH
The Ford Factory Service Manual for 96 says you are supposed to bench bleed and includes a very detailed set of instructions.

_________________
96 F150 6.5' reg. cab, 300 E4OD w/B&M sump, aux cooler and filter, FRPP LSD 3.73 w/alum. cover, Powerslot rotors, Hawk HPS pads, Addco sway bars, Bilstein shocks, 255/70-16s on AR Bajas, Catco converter, 2.5" FM70, Line-X, Sportmasters tonneau, Hella fogs, drivers and backup lights


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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: Replace Clutch Master Cylinder
PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 1:04 pm 
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Low, Slow, and Broke
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Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 8:40 pm
Posts: 4472
Location: Binghamton, NY
thats odd. my master cyl came with an instruction manual on how to bench bleed it. we bench bleed every brake and clutch master cylinder that we install at work (atleast a couple a week)

_________________
2000 Ranger XLT 4wd 4.0L, JBA Cat-back, K&N drop-in M5OD, 8.8" Traclok 4.10's - The Daily
1998 Volkswagen Jetta GL Stock 2.0, Stock Auto, FWD FTL - The Slow (Maggies)
1992 F-150 2wd Modded 4.9, Rebuilt M5OD, 8.8" Open 3.08 - The Low (Driveway Queen)
2001 Yamaha Raptor 660R, Pro Circuit T4 Exhaust - The Fawkin Fast Toy! (With flat tires...)


Maggie: "I like diesels... They whistle while they work!"


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