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Or you can make your own with solder-on connectors. And whether you make or buy, go to larger cables. The increased length will give you a shitload of voltage drop, which you do not need. If you have EFI, you really want to keep the block ground, the PCM is very sensitive to voltage fluctuations. When I moved the battery to the rear of the Mustang, I used #4 cables from the circuit breaker to the solenoid and from the block to the (-) terminal. (With a rear mounted battery, a circuit breaker mounted on the battery box is always a good idea. I used a TI Clix-On 125a breaker) and a #2 cable from the (+) terminal to the circuit breaker.
The tech inspectors at the autocrosses usually take one look at my battery install and sign off on the car; I guess they figure anything that over-engineered has got to be legal.
BTW, if your alternator is big enough to supply all your power needs at max load, you do not need a second battery
_________________ 96 F150 6.5' reg. cab, 300 E4OD w/B&M sump, aux cooler and filter, FRPP LSD 3.73 w/alum. cover, Powerslot rotors, Hawk HPS pads, Addco sway bars, Bilstein shocks, 255/70-16s on AR Bajas, Catco converter, 2.5" FM70, Line-X, Sportmasters tonneau, Hella fogs, drivers and backup lights
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